马丘比丘攀古道 上山不易下山难

Inca Trail hike – Trekking through the mountains to Machu Picchu – one of life’s biggest challenge . Introduction and edited by Stephen Low

马丘比丘(Machu Picchu),新世界七大奇觀之一,位于秘鲁库斯科省(Cusco)乌鲁班巴河左岸 海拔2430米高的山上,三面临河,一面是连山的热带山林的悬崖峭壁,常年笼罩在云雾中。马丘比丘建于公元15世纪, 遗址境内处处可见花园、通道、宫殿、太阳神庙、祭坛、贵族庭院、市场、 作坊、广场、浴池等近200座建筑和连接山坡与城市的约3000级台阶,与周围的自然环境渾然一体.山脊斜坡和后山辟有百余层梯田.公元16、17世纪之交时,遭到廢弃(原因不明,大概是戰乱或瘟疫如smallpox)。在大多数印加城市被西方殖民者破坏的情况下,此处遗址竟能幾百年來似乎人间蒸發.直至1911年,一位美国历史学家机缘巧合地发现了宏伟壮观的马丘比丘。這座天空之城的真正历史至今仍未有定论。也正由于这个原因,谜样的马丘比丘,每年都吸引无数游人到此一窺印加文明的神奇。 (資料來自網絡及加洲魔女日誌.照片部分中文說明詳盡而風趣)

Machu Picchu of Peru was probably built around the year 1450 AD, and it only thrived for approximately 100 years. Once abandoned, the site survived only within the knowledge of locals who knew about its existence, until its rediscovery in 1911by Hiram Bingham, a Yale archaeologist and academic. Due to the fact that it had remained in obscurity for hundreds of years, Machu Picchu has been preserved and appears today much like it would have during its heyday. Among the most impressive characteristics of Machu Picchu is the technique that was employed to build it. Tourists today can take the train from Cusco to Machu Picchu in less than 4 hours. But for the fit there is simply no substitute for traveling to Machu Picchu the way the Inca themselves did—on foot. The now famous Inca Trail winds through the mountains and along the path of the ancient royal highway. More than 75,000 people make the trip each year and along the way experience some of the associated sites that were part of the Inca network in this area.

印加古道地圖

遊客去看遺迹可以由庫斯科乘火車直達作一日遊, 但年輕人及身体健康者多選擇徒步由印加古道 (Inca Trail) 前往,需要四天三夜(露營)長途跋涉,翻山越嶺,由海拔2500多米爬到4200米(公尺), 再多次上山下山, 山路陡峭難行, 有時要手足并用苦不堪言. 好在年輕人能夠苦中作樂. 以下甄雅芳小姐的精美照片和行程英文簡介誏我们有机會分享到神奇古跡,印加智慧,壯麗山河及旅行者之成就感.

文/圖: Rose Yan

I started my trip from Vancouver. My flight was with Air Canada from Vancouver to Toronto then Lima. There are no direct flights from Vancouver to Lima. The flight from Vancouver to Toronto was 4.5 hours and almost 8 hours from Toronto to Lima. We stay one day in Lima, then to our Inca Trail starting point by train. The hike was 3 nights and 4 days, and cost $1449.00 (air from Toronto to Lima $1250.00) Plus Lima airport to the hotel for $35, rented hiking poles $10 USD, sleeping bag $12 USD for the whole hike.  At the end of the trip I tipped $70 USD for the porters, and the 2 guides. I also bought clothes, gear, drugs, etc. for the trip for about $260 and then a travel clinic consultation ($45) which I highly recommend for shots, travel advice and prescription for the high altitude sickness pills. I love the trip b/c it’s the most difficult trip I’ve ever done thus far, and along the way, I met some really cool new friends, learned a lot about a new country and culture, tried new food, saw beautiful and different scenery every day. It’s not a trip against nature or other people, it’s a trip against yourself and what you can or cannot do if you put your mind to it. By the 3rd night, everyone had some kind of pain (knees, ankles, blisters all over the feet, high altitude, vomit, diarrhea, etc.) but everyone was a trooper and made it to the end. And when you do arrive at Machu Picchu your breath is taken away for its beauty and the beauty around it.                                                                                                                                                                     The only thing I didn’t like about the trip was my discovery that I am prone to high altitude sickness. It’s a bit different for everyone. 1 girl had vomit and diarrhea that got really bad on the last day. For me, I didn’t have an appetite to eat, shortness of breath, and tingliness in my hands and feet. The guide says it takes about 8 days in general for people to adjust to the high altitude, but I didn’t have 8 days, my whole tour was 8 days. So by the end of the trip, I was perfectly fine. September 24, 2013 – October 1, 2013

Lima, capital of Peru. Population 9 million including  large number of Chinese, by far the largest ethnic Chinese community in Latin America.
I didn’t visit the Chinatown in Lima b/c I only had 1 day there.  when I got off the plane, there were large posters advertising the mid autumn festival and moon cakes.
秘魯首都八百多万人口中有很多華人, 其中有哲學、大學教授、作家詩人、奥運自由手槍金牌得主、考古學家、杂志主管、电視主持、职业運動員、人類學家、國會議員、藝術家及男女著名商人等(以前 黃岳騰校友家族的農場雞庄也遠近馳名).唐人街兴旺, 中山人頗有江湖地位, 同鄉会館美觀, 比加、美的稍勝一籌.

Top: Municipal Palace,
Traffic in Lima is CRAZY, worst than China…which is saying a lot. Cars squeezing in every way they can. This little van has what looks like over 10 ppl in there.
利馬市内很多西班牙風格建築物. 上圖宫殿式市政大厦. 下圖市内交通之亂糟糟比起中國某些城市有过之而無不及.

From Lima to Cusco before our EPIC HIKES.
由秘魯首都利馬來到庫斯科山城. 飞机下降时候看到的山城还是颇具特色的，暗黄色的Andes安第斯山脉附近Urubamba Valley(Sacred Valley)山坡上满满的砖红色房顶的矮房子。这里是Cusco的古城区，基本修建在山腰和山脚下.
下: 部分团友合照.

Chicken and rice soup with a giant piece of chicken.
這里有世界著名的特色餐飲. 雞湯有超大雞肉.

Left: My first coca tea, let’s hope it helps with my high altitude sickness….tastes kinda like green tea; Right: A must try popular drink in Peru.
Inca Kola…tastes like a very sweet pop.
Coca Leaves不是普通的茶叶.听了老板娘详细的介绍后， 才惊然这是Cocaine 可卡因的原叶材料,据說能減輕高原反應症狀.
右: 印加可樂.甜汽水.

We went shopping…kinda…more looking than shopping — with Vivian Tsang
我們去逛市集, 只看不買.

Day 1.
Leaving to Ollantaytambo
由庫斯科乘火車可直達馬丘比丘. 但我們將在徒步登山起點小镇下車.

Group photo before we start! My Inca Trail family: Canada Dry.
There were 14 people in our group. 23 support staff/porters, 2 cooks, 1 head guide and 1 assistant guide and the rest are porters who carries all our equipment, (tents, tables, cooking equipment, water, etc.)
印加古道入口. 就到了KM 82 Piscacucho, 在这里我们下车，和背夫还有一路跟随我们的厨师会面。交接我们的行李，他们分摊背好，然后我们就整装上路。IncaTrail每天只限制500人入关，这其中有300的名额是给背夫，徒导，厨师和服务人员的，其余的200是游客。这样子路上和营地不会很挤，而且垃圾也有控制，对与古道的本身也起到尽量减少耗费度.(加拿大乾薑汽水团闭友合照)

Look at the size of the bags the porters have to carry for us, very grateful to them .Bottom: I think this was called…”The Dark Alley”. They would take turns running through it and the others will beat you with something soft.
上: 与背夫会面.一个porter的价格是98美金(已包在团费內)，的确是不便宜，而且他的负重上限是15KG.我们准备把一些换洗衣物集中放一个大包中，让背夫帮我们扛着，自己就随身携带相机重要文件零食水还有徒步过程中会用到的物品就好。最开始或许真的觉得他们要价高，但是后来经过一天的路程后，对所有的背夫敬佩不已，这些钱真的是值得的.
下: 导遊,背夫,廚師等在玩南美洲式「三打木人巷」.

Connie & Nelson, my new Thunder Bay friends.
看着翻腾急流的河水，心情很紧张兴奋，好想赶快去展现一下自己的身手，看看到底什么时候才能感觉到自己生不如死。

Locals who live on the Inca Trail.
途中見到一些民居. 以後都是荒山野嶺.

Campsite #1
我们的第一夜在这里扎营.他们会给我们小凳子坐啊，吃饭還有桌子, 这些全部都是背夫从山下背上来的哦！

My bedroom for the next 3 nights.
My trip was from September 24, 2013 – October 1, 2013. It was the dry season, and near the end of the busy summer season crowd. I didn’t want to go during the wet season b/c of the rain like the girls from California. There was 1 day that rained which made it cold and wet, but the other nights were great.
以後三晚的帳篷.天氣暧還好, 若在冬天雨季,  又冷又濕倍感難受.

Day 2.
Porters on the hike, they got bigger bags and hikes faster than we do…they make me feel like I’m 80.
Right : Ugu!
今天的路很難走.基本都是上坡路.土坡路一路朝上,这时候路视野也很开阔，自己一整个是在群山一整片绿色的包围中.行到这里，海拔其实已经是3800米了。还好除了爬坡会喘外還可以前進. 但看看背夫之負重量和步履,使人覺得自己像個老太婆.

Elke’s wondering if she has enough water…
不过最后这段路真的更加陡峭，每阶的石阶的跨越度也更加大。应该都有接近4000米了啦，虽然呼吸起来并没有特别觉得空气稀薄. 但也要小息飲水了.

Beautiful. At the top of Dead Women’s Pass, our highest point. (approx. 13,828 ft above sea level). I feel like a dead women getting up there.
小息後重新上路开始挑战最高峰 Warmi Wañuska pass (Dead Woman’s Pass 亡婦隘口), 海拔 ~ 4200米.(1呎=0.3048米)

Our cooks makes the best food, every single meal. Not one meal was bad. Too bad I didn’t eat much as high altitude sickness kicks in high gear…
在群山中，每顿热气腾腾的餐都得來不易。真感动,好好吃啊但沒有胃口。

Day 3.
We’re ready !
第三天的徒步,基本都是下坡路. 距离又是最长的，需要走16公里, 越走就越真心的认为，第三天的路，并不比第二天容易。

Going down is in no way easier then going up.
路继续走，有的时候需要穿洞，有的时候在悬崖遥望眼底一大片云雾之上的群峰，有的时候是穿过一小片丛林。古代的人们啊，你们当初是怎么就发现要这么走这条路呢？

My hiking partners
攀山越嶺三女俠.

You know you’re a good guide when the girls blow kisses at you…hahaha
the porters are all locals from the towns in the mountains and they mostly speak Quechua, a few speak Spanish.
有靓女飛吻自然知道自己导遊角色做得不差

Lunch. Our porters try to make our experience the best possible, even to the smallest details such as folding origami napkins for us.
除了早午晚三餐美味可口熱騰騰外, 他们也花點心思誏我們高興一翻, 如餐枱餐巾, 薄餅造句我想家、永不再(來爬山) 等句代我們說心声. 溫馨有趣.

Don’t be mistaken, this is not Machu Picchu yet.
途經 Phuyupatamarca, 可以说是一个 mini 的马丘比丘感觉了。一大片的山头，有围墙，有广场，有很多不同的隔间房间；外围还有水道，桥梁，楼梯，嘹望台…

So pretty
壯麗山河.天天翻山越嶺.
山谷下面那条河上游处的那个城镇，就是马丘比丘山下的 Aguas Calientes， 又名hot springs 温泉镇。如果是要搭乘火车过来马丘比丘， 温泉镇就是下车的地方。而我们明天下山后，也会从那里搭车返回Cusco.

Careful!
山坡上一排一排整齐的阶梯，那些是曾经的耕地和粮仓。这边依山傍水，地处高地，在很久很久以前的那个年代里面，一定是一座乌托邦世外桃源.

Hundreds of steps! Percy is just waking up hahaha.
Our guide, Percy, is a local so he can speak Quechua, Spanish, and English. I found out later that our guide being able to speak Quechua is a great advantage b/c that bridges us with our porters.
如直立般石級, 需导遊扶危濟困一下.

Vivian and Rachel
山路難行,苦中作樂.

Up hill battle was hard; going down was even harder! one missed step and you’re in big trouble.
上山不易下山難, 一失足成千古恨.

Llamas. Where were you came from, where are you going?
我們攀古道, 美洲驼在此做什么?

Our view for the night. Beautiful isn’t it?
辛辛苦苦的爬到这里，终于被reward了, 云彩随着远处山谷间的阳光变化而变化。太奇妙了哇。这可以说是我在印加古道上最难忘的一个 Moment.

Having some fun before dinner . note the Head light.
it was great to get to know them, where they are from (all are from villages in the mountains) and what they hope to do or accomplish. A lot of them are simple things like save money so their kids can go to school, since a lot of them are farmers and some are illiterate. It really puts things into perspective for me.
要提醒大家来宿营还是需要购置一个头灯的。手电筒不好用！ 你可以想象一下，漆黑马虎的原始厕所里，你一边要照明还一边要脱裤子或者提裤子是怎样的艰难.

Our last dinner on the Inca Trail.
第三天古道上最後晚餐. 竟然有點依依不捨.-
明天還有早餐。但午、晚餐要等下山後貴客自理.

Day 4. last day, here we go. (note the head light)
曙光的第四日，终于来临了！这一天早上，我们披星戴月的3点就起床！5点之前就要开始趁着风高月黑上路.

At the Sun Gate…we got there before the sun did…too bad.
从SunGate这里，云消太阳出來後看到的是大全貌,大全貌啊，没有一点遮拦的。山头，古迹，大河，巴士的上山路清晰的不得了.(如下一張)

Road going down (for us) and road going up for those took the train and bus.
是要这么弯弯曲曲左拐右拐十八弯才能上来的，不容易吧。当然，比起我们来说，那可真的是容易多啦！

Doesn’t it look like a waterfall of clouds?
白雲瀑布. 蔚為奇觀.

Almost there!!
目的地在望, 大大鬆了一口氣. 我們將走後門進入聖地.

Cover with clouds  for thousands of  years and counting.
从我当时的所处位置看下去，营地那里仿佛是神仙的住处，云雾缭绕，翠绿环抱，深山老林里面，充满了仙气。

I make it!!
經历了人生一個大挑戰終於如願以償到達馬丘比丘古城. 但由於过去幾天的艱辛, 此刻的成就感稍稍減低了現場之震撼感.

Ladies and gentlemen, Machu Picchu. Breathtaking isn’t it?
过去數天痛不欲生的辛苦感覺一掃而空. 但以後不会再去爬高于3400米的山峰了. 高原反應很難受.
Just a FYI, to put things into perspective. I have no interest in going to any of the places above Cuzco after I learned what high altitude sickness does to me .

How on earth did they moved all these stones up here?!
马丘比丘城内所有建筑由纵横其间的台阶连接起来,有的石阶多达160层。并且,这些建筑全部用大块花岗石砌成,石块之间结合紧密,不用任何黏合材料,全是石匠们使用简单工具拼接垒筑而成。几个世纪以来,这里发生过多次地震和山洪,而雄伟的古城却安然无恙,丝 毫未损。古代印加人高超的建筑技术在此得到了极好的印证。

马丘比丘有着众多的神庙,其中的太阳神庙不仅是印加人祈祭太阳的场所,每年夏至时分,太阳光正好由神庙东窗射入,十分准确地投影在庙中用来测量太阳升起点的“捆日石”上.主神庙是一座三面围墙一面开放的建筑,其东西两侧石墙皆以巨石为底,并以打磨精细的石块垒砌而成,庙中还有一座巨石砌成的祭坛。三窗庙位于主神庙旁,因有三扇巨石叠成的大窗而得名。 庙中立有一根石柱,据说是用来支撑屋顶的,石柱边还有一块代表天地宇宙的阶梯石刻。

神圣广场.
与库斯科城中的大广场一样,是举行最重要的宗教仪式的场所。只有在这种场合,方圆5公里内的农人才从八条山间小路,甚至涉过乌鲁班巴河来到这座神圣古城。

Taking it all in.
整個違迹有3000多石級. 站在一边看看及想像一下萛了. 若要細心欣賞其建築技術,城市佈局等就要等待下一次. 下一次当然舍難取易.乘車而來。
有人建議在山谷间搭橋, 築索道(吊椅、纜車)或直升機遊覽等都給有关当局否決了.

「Family 」photo.I was the only one from Vancouver; there were 2 ladies from Liverpool, a couple from London, a guy from Manchester, a couple from Thunder Bay, and 6 from Toronto.
大功告成 人生又充實了一點.
行完古跡輕輕鬆鬆下山去.

Guinea pig! Tastes kinda like quail.
燒豚鼠肉如食鵪鶉. 無論如何, 山下餐館是舒服一點.
豚鼠又是實驗室之試驗品, 应避免别人把你作当作
Guinea pig.

The hilarious ladies from Wales, Jen & Becky
惹笑双妹來自英國威爾士.

Back to Cusco by train.
坐火車回庫斯科. 車廂現代化. 大大的窗户外就是激流勇进的 烏鲁班巴河 Urubamba River.

Urubamba River.
On the way home, my flight was 14.5 hours. That was a very long day, I traveled for almost 24 hours before I got home b/c I had to fly out of Cuzco, woke up at 3:30am EST to catch my flight, to Lima, almost missed my Air Canada flight home and there was only 1 flight to Canada from Air Canada that day and the next flight is the day after tomorrow, so I really had to make that flight. And when I got from Lima to Toronto, I have missed my flight to Vancouver, so I had to wait and get the last seat on the next flight to Vancouver. By the time I got home it was 12:30 am PST, I was exhausted!
火车是非常不错的，全部都是顶端都有窗户的观光列车。时间虽然长，不过沿途一直顺着Urubamba River行驶，一路的景色都非常賞心悅目.此时此刻的心情和感受，应该是最新鲜清晰的吧。